By Eve Hersh When he was a child, Çekdar Türk and his family lived in fear of the Turkish military. Türk remembers looking for places to hide when the military came to his village. “We knew that when the military would come they would take someone,” he said. Türk was born when Turkey still had [...]…
By Willa Hine In 2010, Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan stepped on to the podium exclaiming: “I don’t want to see my Roma brothers in tents any more. I want them to enjoy a decent standard of living.” This was the democratic push that the Justice Development Party (AKP) made to reach out to [...]…
By Samantha Baranowski The Grand Bazaar, Istanbul’s famous covered market, is falling apart — but it’s not clear who will foot the bill for an estimated $100 million in repairs. Hasan Firat, president of the Bazaar Traders’ Association, claims the government isn’t doing anything to fix the 550-year-old his…
By Laura McCabe After overpaying for dinner on the Bosphorus once too often, I decided my next destination would be anywhere but the packed, noisy streets of the principal Taksim or Sultanahmet districts. I was ready to eat, and eat well. I wanted to find the best little hole-in-the wall restaurants, and dine with the [...]…
By Karissa Bell Once-vibrant Greek neighborhoods in Istanbul are now practically relics. Houses that belonged to Greek families lie in ruins; many schools for Greek children are closed, and covered in dust. Greek Orthodox churches are often the last reminders of this shrinking community, which once numbered in the hundreds …